Thursday 29 October 2015

the women who rule the web

(is the internet establishing itself as a female place amidst all the world of warcraft techies?)


https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/feminism-20

the women who rule the web

Social media has been changing our perception of women ever since we first logged on. Aside from square eyes, itchy fingers, and an obsessive-compulsive need to post pictures of everything we see, eat, and sleep with, has social media unleashed a new kind of sexist hell? Or has it actually brought about a sense of female empowerment?

From rape threats to rape jokes, leaked footage of naked ex-girlfriends to violent images of women, misogynist memes (''they say a woman's work is never done, maybe that's why they get paid less") to Women Who Eat on Tubes - the Facebook group which makes women think twice about chowing down a six inch Sub on the Circle Line - there's no doubt about it, social media has been bad for women. Especially since it's also given rise to bitchiness amongst them.
Whether it's the pre-pubescent fans of One Direction, who seem to get their knickers in a twist every time Harry Styles is photographed with a girl, or the generic Twitter troll out to get anyone with a muffin top, social media has become a playground for girl on girl bullying. Just look at Lena Dunham who has been criticised on Twitter for being ''fat'' or ''ugly'', or Scout Willis, who had her Instagram account deleted because someone reported a photograph of her in a sheer top. So, yes, social media has indeed been bad for women, but then it's also done some good stuff too.
As leading feminist Germaine Greer wrote in a recent article, feminism exists both as ''a media phenomenon and as an academic discipline.'' However, thanks to social media, the gap between these two disparate strands of feminism is starting to close and, with that, filter in to our daily lives. Today, you don't need a PHD, a library card, or a fully-grown bush to join in the debate about women. To make yourself heard as a feminist, and connect with others like you, all you need is decent Wi-Fi and a catchy URL.
''The Internet accelerated the objectification of women and unravelled a lot of ground work made by feminists in previous generations,'' says artist, model, and author of feminist blog Cunt Today, Phoebe Collings-James, ''I think many women are now trying to reclaim that identity, salvage it from Google searches of tits and arse... and take control of that objectification to create their own image.'' From an extract of the late Maya Angelou's inspirational poetry to a poignant discussion of rape culture, Cunt Today is a refreshing examination of what feminism means in the 21st century. ''I wanted to create a blog that collated content from a variety of perspectives and sources, almost as a kind of research project that was open to contribution and can be used as a resource.'' Combining cool snippets of popular culture with traditional feminist debate, Phoebe uses social media to wipe away the cobwebs of feminism past and make it accessible for all those online. And she's not alone; Petra CollinsArvida Byström, Karley Sciortino, the girls from Be Here Nowishand Tessa and Grace Edwards have all been doing it too, sometimes even doing it together.
''To be honest I think loads of us still represent ourselves through some kind of male gaze, but I do think there is a huge difference to somewhat be able to hold the camera yourself and take a selfie without having a man present.''
NOTE TO SELF: CONSIDER THE FEMALE AND MALE GAZE IN MY WORK - RESEARCH FURTHER! TALK ABOUT THIS WHEN I ANALYZE THE WORK
Petra Collins is the uber cool artist from Toronto whose Instagram account is a candy-coloured, sugar coated dream world filled with selfies, stickers, and sprinkled with fairy dust. But instead of being some shrine to Barbies, pink princesses or any other gendered typecasts out there, each curated image is a deconstruction of female stereotypes and their negative connotations for women.  (NOTE TO SELF, HOW DO I MAKE IT EVEN CLEARER IN MY WORK THAT I AM QUESTIONING FEMALE STEREOTYPES IN THE SAME WAY?)TALK ABOUT THIS WHEN I ANALYZE THE WORK
In one photo Petra is reclining on the floor in her underwear with an emoji of a devil blocking out her face, while in another she's in the bath with a slice of peperoni pizza covering her breasts and an emoji of a star hovering over her nether regions. There's also a picture of a period stained sheet with the caption ''Rorschach tests all up in my bed''; a picture where she's revealing her armpit hair; and a video of her holding up a tampon against a beautiful beach sunset, with the caption, ''just got my period & bled on the floor at Untitled Art Fair #ArtBaselMiami.'' Just like Phoebe, Petra uses social media as a means of female empowerment and does it in a cool, refreshing, and modern way.
NOTE TO SELF: How can I use social media more effectively to share my message?
Also using Instagram as a way of reclaiming the female image is the blue-haired model and photographer Arvida Byström, who recently shot with Petra for Vice. ''To be honest I think loads of us still represent ourselves through some kind of male gaze,'' she says, ''but I do think there is a huge difference to somewhat be able to hold the camera yourself and take a selfie without having a man present.'' From taking stark, desexualising photos of herself covered in bath foam to one of her wearing no make-up in bed, and accompanied by the caption ''I think I'm in a nude shoot tomorrow, should I have coloured my pubes too?'' Arvida's selfies are a challenge to the many images we see floating around online of girls with their breasts up, bottoms out, lips about to let out a burp - or whatever combination is traditionally seen as being sexy.
Of course there is a narcissism in posting a million pictures of yourself online, but it is also a means of exploring the way in which we represent ourselves, one that has not been conditioned by years of female objectification. By choosing how women represent themselves on social media, we can finally have control over our own image, without having to go (quite literally) through the middleman. ''We can now make the choice to post a sexy photo, and try and mimic the way Beyoncé or Miley or Kim Kardashian represent themselves,'' say Alexandra Roxo and Natalia Leite, co-creators of cool new web series Be Here Nowish, ''or we can make the choice to post a photo where we are smiling with spinach in our teeth and a stain on our shirt.'' Just look at Alexandra's Instagram account, in which she's posted everything from a photograph of her holding two glasses of green juice in front of her otherwise naked breasts (a satirical play on Tyrone Lebon's sexy portrait of Lara Stone in The Q&A Issue of i-D) to a still of her attempting awkward tantric sex with co-star Adam Carpenter.
''So many of the images we see of women - on TV, in movies and advertisements are images of women shown through the very narrow lens of mainstream media, which is largely controlled by men, this is why so often women are seen simply as sex objects, or as being one-dimensional.''
''So many of the images we see of women - on TV, in movies and advertisements are images of women shown through the very narrow lens of mainstream media, which is largely controlled by men,'' says Karley Sciortino, author of sex blog Slutever, Vogue's answer to Carrie Bradshaw, and long time friend to Petra, Phoebe, and Alexandra (she recently guest starred in Be Here Nowish) ''this is why so often women are seen simply as sex objects, or as being one-dimensional.'' On top of giving them a voice, and allowing them to choose how they represent themselves, social media has also given women a platform to express themselves as sexual beings, through terms other than those dictated by men.
For Karley, who discusses everything from the female orgasm to becoming a dominatrix on her blog, ''choosing to express one's sexuality is different from a woman being sexualised without consent or control. But now, girls have a platform to speak for themselves and create their own audiences online... Girls don't have to wait to be accepted into boys' clubs anymore - we can launch our own online magazines, write our own blogs, make artworks and films that are distributed ourselves through the Internet.''
Also deconstructing the relationship between social media and feminism is dreamy designer Tessa Edwards and her sister Grace. In an exciting, soon to be released documentary called Blurred Lines, the girls explore how Post Internet feminism has been ''elevating popular social consciousness to the ways in which women are portrayed online, and the ways women are self-presenting their image to others.'' But far from merely accepting the latest onslaught of supposedly feminist Internet art, the girls seek to question its authenticity. Are these creative expressions vehicles of female empowerment or, as the girls question, ''are they simply affectations of persuasions of the media, narcissism, effects of the desire for popularity, adoration or fame?'' Interviewing everyone from Penny Slinger to Petra Collins, Barbara Kruger to Brooke Candy, they leave no stone unturned.
Up until this point, some have considered feminism a ''dirty'' word, having previously associated it with crusty academics and angry, man-hating women. I've read so many interviews where young girls in the spotlight are claiming they aren't feminists, purely because they don't really know what feminism is or are scared of its negative connotations. However, thanks to this new digitalised wave of female empowerment, things are clearly starting to change. Indeed, whether it's the shiny pink, tampon filled Insta world of Petra Collins or Karley Sciortino's sexed up riot grrrl blog thanks to social media, feminism has undergone a modern makeover and is being liked, shared, and spread all over the world. And it's time to join in.








NOTES/QUOTES FROM BOOKS I HV/WILL READ!!!

get on with it!

lipstick protester

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<a href="http://bullettmedia.com/article/badass-macedonian-protestor-applies-in-riot-shield-mirror/">http://bullettmedia.com/article/badass-macedonian-protestor-applies-in-riot-shield-mirror/</a><br />
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A digital sensation of female presence - nick knight, article by arvida






http://showstudio.com/project/girly/fashion_film_girl

"ABOUT GIRLY

'The little girl cuddles her doll and dresses her up as she dreams of being cuddled and dressed up herself; inversely, she thinks of herself as a marvellous doll,' writes Simone de Beauvoir.

Using key A/W 14 garments as a starting point - from Ryan Lo's bunny ears and tutus to Meadham Kirchhoff's pastel frilled dresses - SHOWstudio launches an investigation into the exaggerated almost fetishistic girliness championed on some runways, by certain female musicians and celebrities, and, with increasing frequency, on Tumblr and Instagram. The series, instigated by editor Lou Stoppard and director Nick Knight, will explore what this embracing of ultra-femininity and childishness - pink, cartoons, fluff, sparkles - says about attitudes to women and female identity and the luxury industry. We will question what motivates the 'Living Dolls' who embrace this style. Are they reclaiming girlishness? Are they dressing for themselves, rejecting the male gaze and the idea that one should dress to resemble a man to be seen as strong, sticking two fingers up to those who obsessively scrutinise women's clothing in the media? Or is the notion of choice so slippery that one could feasibly presume they are merely conforming to entrenched societal expectations that continue to be reinforced by toy shops filled with pink dolls for girls and blue cars for boys?

Indeed, such is the complexity of the 'girly' trend that it can be read in two directly opposing ways. On one hand as the ultimate sign of women ‘dressing up’ or ‘performing’ for men by turning themselves into passive, pouting, fragile, child-like fantasies echoing a pornified culture that fetishises youth, virginity and inexperience and renders women mere objects. And on the other an example of strength and irreverence; a sign of women reclaiming certain elements of femininity and dressing not to conform but to stand out and please themselves.

The series kicks off with a fashion film, created in collaboration with The British Fashion Council, that shows off and documents the work of key London designers, from Christopher Kane and Simone Rocha to Lo and Kirchhoff, alongside archive pieces from designers such as Luella Bartley and Louise Gray. The film was funded by the BFC Fashion Film initiative, which is sponsored by River Island. The piece plays with ideas of gaze, autonomy and voyeurism and, in a pioneering venture, was made by two directors - Nick Knight and Rei Nadal - working independently but together at the same time. Nadal shot model Ali Michael while Knight captured her at work. The footage from both cameras is presented in the film, so the two visions are united. Both Nadal and Michael were styled by Ellie Grace Cumming. The film shoot was streamed live on 1 and 2 September 2014.
Additionally, essays and interviews explore the topic further. Fashion writers, academics and feminist thinkers unpick the many facets of this style, each offering a unique and personal opinion. They question why a grown woman would want to look like a child, while exploring the look's aesthetic roots. Amongst others, Chris Hobbs tackles fashion's obsession with the language of the internet, while Bertie Brandes offers an update on the 'Girly' trend post-S/S 15, a season that fetishised feminism and femininity. Finally, to unite theory with testimony, and to aknowledge the fact that the style is worn and championed by real women on the street everyday, individuals who embrace and live this aesthetic - from stylists Louby Mcloughlin and Lola Chatterton to designer Ryan Lo - are interviewed."


INSERT ANALYSIS (FURTHER READING!)















http://showstudio.com/project/whaam/moving_images
"ABOUT Whaam
Nick Knight photographs Lindsey Wixson live for Dasha Zhukova's Garage magazine. Using styling by Katy England and captions by Perez Hilton, Knight reimagines Roy Lichtenstein's comic book inspired Pop art paintings - created as a commentary on popular culture and commercial art of the sixties - for the title's third issue. The final results are shown in editorial shots and unique moving images."















http://showstudio.com/project/powershift/feed
"ABOUT #Powershift
For the A/W 2013 'Power Women' issue of The Independent Magazine, Nick Knight photographs a new all–female army of Social Media-Moguls – Lily Allen, Iggy Azalea, Kelly Brook, Abbey Clancy and Amy Childs - five women whose combined multi-million social media reach exceeds the population of Greece. Aptly, Nick Knight will capture the entire shoot on his iPhone, creating a live fashion editorial.
Facebook, Instagram, Hang W/, Twitter. To us, they’re communication tools. But to some, they’re weapons of global domination. For the autumn/winter 2013 'Power Women' issue of The Independent Magazine, Nick Knight photographs a new all–female army of Social Media-Moguls – Lily Allen, Iggy Azalea, Kelly Brook, Abbey Clancy and Amy Childs - five women whose combined multi-million social media reach exceeds the population of Greece, broadcasting their talents world-wide.
Taking that 'switch' of power as his cue, and drawing on SHOWstudio's long history of championing new technologies, Nick Knight will capture the entire shoot on his iPhone, Instagramming the images as they are captured to create a live fashion editorial in advance of the magazine's publication on 21 September.
Inspired by SHOWstudio’s Punk season of programming, each woman’s look is radically overhauled by stylist Anna Trevelyan, twisting her own take out of the season’s finest fashions from Versace, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Chanel.
Follow the shoot on Instagram via @showstudio_nick_knight Hang W/ via showstudio_nick_knight and watch the SHOWstudio Twitter and Tumblr throughout Sunday 8 and Monday 9 September to see the action unfold."

































http://showstudio.com/project/haute_death/death_apps
"ABOUT 'haute death'
Karlie Kloss dies an elegant death in Nick Knight and Edward Enninful's arresting couture editorial for W magazine. The pair draw inspiration from the kind of macabre, nightmarish illustrations that litter childhood fiction, offering up a vision which is part Grimm's fairy tale part mature Parisian opulence. The final images - which see Kloss clad in the best haute couture from A/W 2012, including pieces by Dior, Givenchy, Chanel and Iris Van Herpen - straddle dark and light, combining symbolism that is both sweet and sinister.
Continuing his exploration of contrasts, Knight juxtaposes the delicate vintage-look images with pithy modern 'death app' films that see Kloss suffer various violent deaths, all while clad in couture. The striking images in this editorial mark of the start of Knight's investigation into fashion illustration."


Analysis:
 Fashion victims: Death by couture
I love the way in which these films are presented as tiny snippets, in a very digital manner. They have literally been branded, their value is the title which they have been given. 
I think the effects are a little obvious, and I suppose that makes sense because the whole thing is about digitalisation and it uses 'death apps' : an app used to simulate death in a film clip. TRY IT! (if it exists!) 

I guess its about how nowadays everything is available to be sold, bought, watched, downloaded. 
The juxtaposition of the cheapy tacky easily-available app with these high end names of fashion and the delicate high fashion imagery creates an interesting tension which speaks volumes about the kind of world we live in now, and the role of consumerism and digitalization. 
The pixellated-ness of the images makes it seem like they were shot on an iPhone, gives it an interesting quality.
At the end of the day the clips are to sell fashion not art, however I would have loved to see it a little more realistic, it wouldn't have been interesting, although I do like the aspect of digitalisation and immediacy of using the 'death app'. 





OTHER IMAGES